Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Rene Gruau Illustrations Featuring Millinery

Rene Gruau was one of the finest fashion illustrators of the 20th century. Working a lot with Christian Dior, his illustrations are often associated with the New Look. Below are some great mid-century illustrations of his featuring hats.






Monday, August 13, 2012

Hats of Elsa Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli is one of my all time favorite fashion designers. I am blown away by the level of detail in her work and the sheer originality. Her surrealist fashion collaborations with Salvador Dali are legendary. In May, I drove into New York to see the exhibit of her designs in person at the Met. It was worth the trip to see the buttons she uses up close, alone. I love imagining the bold woman between the wars who wore a bug necklace or a shoe hat.

Her couture house was a Paris staple for 20 years, but closed it's doors in 1954 after being unable to adapt to changes in the fashion industry after the war. Last month it reopened at Place Vendôme in Paris and they are launching their first line in over half a century next February.

In honor of this renewed public interest in this cherished iconoclast, I wanted to share some images of her incredible millinery work.










Sunday, August 12, 2012

Hats From The Women (1939) Part 2

Click here for Part 1.
Partway through the movie The Women there is a 10 minute fashion show shot in Technicolor. It is a bizarre break from the story and something the director originally wanted to take out. But it is such an interesting capsule of fashion from the time, and really showcases the work that makes costume designer Adrian's name so iconic.


Love the painted silk lining. The hands give it a bizarrely surrealistic touch

Adrian also did the designs for Wizard of Oz this year. Notice a witch theme?


Great dimensionality in the bow.



Strange early use of plastic.




Saturday, August 11, 2012

Hats From The Women (1939)

The Women is a fast paced, witty movie about gossipy upper class New York wives. The costumes designed by Adrian steal the show. These women would have been wearing couture and Adrian does a great job of interpreting that look through a Hollywood lens. He suffuses glamor with surrealism. And what you get are some really put together looks finished with fabulous accessories including some marvelous broaches and some really interesting hats that at times can be gorgeous and others, really out there.


Note the Schiaparelli influence on the look on the left.





The glitziest Great-Depression era Nevada ranch I've ever seen.

What are your favorite movie hats?